Food Fit For a King – 15/20 Age Good Food Review

This grapevine article is an excerpt from Good Food. To read the full review, head to Good Food online.

 “The chef [Jack Cassidy] has a true talent for distilling ingredients into elegant clear broths that pack in so much flavour they are practically dishes unto themselves.

Mussels come in a warm tomato water that sings with umami and roasted tomato essence. Thin ribbons of daikon radish add just enough textural contrast to the fat mussels, but it’s the broth itself that makes the dish extraordinary. 

It’s quite an astounding feat, to bring the soul of a green curry, using native Australian ingredients, to what is essentially a consommé, and it led to the second time during one meal that I greedily scooped up the liquid in the bowl with a spoon, seeing the other elements as playing second fiddle to a broth.

As much attention is paid to the vegetable dishes here as the meaty ones, including a stunning confit leek sitting under a cloud of cauliflower fluff, punctuated with almonds.

Kin provides its own very convincing reason to drive through those hedges and down that sweeping grove of elms. And Cassidy deserves our attention as one of the state’s most talented up-and-coming chefs.”

- Besha Rodell, Age Good Food 27 June 2023

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