The Angels May Get 8 Per Cent, But What They're Leaving Behind is Liquid Gold

A few years ago, Nick Brown decided to change tack with the All Saints Estate Museum Muscadelle. He began adding even older wine material to it. 

Now it's a blend of 120-year-old and 80-year-old wines, making it, on average, a 100-year-old wine. 

The fourth-generation winemaker, who oversees all winemaking and viticulture for All Saints Estate at Wahgunyah and its sister properties, said the process began by reducing the amount of younger material going into the mix. 

He said it was a special blend, perfected by winemakers over generations. 

"It's been slowly ageing and becoming more luscious and concentrated for over 100 years," he said. 

"It sits in barrels and casks of varying sizes, and we lose about 8 per cent of the volume every year; it's basically water running through the wood into the atmosphere, and that's what we call the angel's share. 

"The accountants hate the angels, but I have to remind them that's what makes the wine so much more concentrated and rich, over time." 

In Melbourne on Wednesday, August 20, the All Saints Estate Museum Muscadelle earned a perfect score of 100 points and claimed Fortified of the Year at the 2026 Halliday Wine Companion Awards. 

On the Museum Muscadelle, wine writer Jeni Port wrote: "The stuff of dreams or, to be precise, history. With base wines reaching back 100-plus years, this offers a rare and privileged taste of extraordinary age, complexity and sheer hedonistic pleasure. 

"The art of the blender is on show, combining deep-set intensity of flavour with a remarkably clean, neutral spirit freshness." As part of the release of the 2026 Halliday Wine Companion, All Saints Estate retained a perfect score of 100 points for its NV Museum Muscat, making All Saints Estate the only winery in Australia to attain two perfectly scored wines in the companion. 

"One was exciting, two's amazing!" Mr Brown said. 

"Fortified wines, as a style of wine, were very popular years ago, and they had a bit of a rest for a while. 

"Now, they're becoming more and more well-known and even the younger wines are really approachable, so that the next generations are discovering these wines when they get a gong like this." 

All Saints Estate also retained its Five Red Stars accreditation for the 19th consecutive year. To achieve five red stars, a winery will have at least two wines rated at 95 points or above and has typically had a 5-star rating for the previous three years. All Saint Estate surpassed these criteria with 13 wines rated 95 points or higher. 

Milawa winery Brown Brothers took home the People's Choice Award at the 2026 Halliday Wine Companion Awards. This award, voted on by more than 10,000 consumers, recognises the winery that offers the best overall experience, from the cellar door to the hospitality. 

Article published by Border Mail on 26 August, 2025. Written by Jodie Bruton.