" Looking beyond the standards

Think Rutherglen wine and two things spring to mind – fortifieds and durif. The fortifieds get the international accolades and, while I’m a huge fan, I can’t drink them every night. They’re special wines for special occasions.

Rutherglen durif, the reliably delicious red, however, is a different story. I could drink it most nights, especially in winter.

All Saints Estate Family Cellar 2009 Durif

4/5 stars

This is fermented for a long time on its skins, which softens the tannins (skin contact usually increases tannin), before the juice is pressed out using a 133-year-old basket press. It tastes and smells of red berries, plums and cherry cola, with some spice and vanilla, cinnamon and oak. Slinky and luscious, it’s got a fine mix between bright, dense fruit flavour and grippy tannins that feel well at home and balanced in the wine.

Food match \ Lancashire hotpot"

The Weekly Review, Ben Thomas, 17 May 2013

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