"Robust flavour to savour

...Shiraz, which is also widely planted in Rutherglen, seems to work a bit differently. It has substance and imparts the region’s stamp, but does so in a more fragrant, perfumed way.

I’m tempted to call it Rutherglen’s pinot noir, but that just doesn’t do the grape or the region justice.

It is generally much more approachable when young but, unlike its equally full-bodied counterparts from the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale, has more sapidity early in its life.

This “savour” makes it great at table with robustly flavoured dishes. The All Saints Shiraz was perfect with the winery’s Terrace restaurant’s slow-braised Rutherglen suckling lamb with peperoncino, almond and olive salsa.

WHAT TO DRINK

"All Saints Estate Family Cellar Shiraz 2008 (Rutherglen, Vic)

This is new-style Rutherglen – polished raspberry pure fruit with a sniff of fine, fragrant vanilla – with incredible fruit power. And in the mouth also, with flavours and textures which are slick and opulent, yet structured. Has dense, building tannins, too, and the oak is beautifully integrated. For lovers of opulent, tongue-coating reds. Already quite approachable. 94(95)/100, 9/10, $50.

Out of 100 = empiric rating. Out of 10 = hedonic – how much I like it. Brackets = the rating when drunk at its best."

Tim White, The Australian Financial Review, 11th May 2012

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