An ugly duckling can be a swan in the right hands, writes Jeni Port

"I first came in contact with marsanne 20 years ago" says Dan Crane, a winemaker at All Saints Estate. "The textbooks were quite dismissive of the grape - flat, gluey, oily - and some of the wines were very disappointing. But the best were magical."

All Saints has 50-year-old vines of the grape that were taken as cuttings from Tahbilk. Crane's first marsanne was made at All Saints in 2003. "I love working with it," he says.

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The Age Epicure, Jeni Port, November 8th, 2011