"The sweet vein continues. I had mentioned in an earlier article my great liking of the Rutherglen Muscats, Australia's most distinctive sweet wines. I also mentioned our tour of northeast Victoria and a fleeting glimpse of the All Saints winery. The Saints must have listened to my prayer, for a carton arrived bearing gifts: a range of its Muscats, blends of different ages. The Grand (a Gold medal-winner in this issue's DWWA results, I note) has an average age of 20 years in wood. A brown-rimmed tawny hue, a nose-filling scent - 'raisins and singed brown sugar', I noted; very sweet, rich, penetrating palate. Lovely. Older still, the Rare (DWWA Silver) - same acidity, like an old Sercial Madeira. Both Muscats 18% alcohol. Soft, rounded and perfect with mid-morning ginger-oat biscuits.

Thrown in for good measure were a few bottles of table wines including a red made from Durif, a neglected Provencal grape probably a crossing between Syrah and Peloursin, Jancis Robinson MW suggests. It is known as Petite Sirah in California and is strangely at home in certain areas of Australia, such as Rutherglen. This 2012 All Saints Durif (DWWA Bronze) had a fairly deep, cherry colour, a fresh, fruity nose and a most unusual, distinctive flavour. Crisp, fresh finish; a great new experience (£16 a bottle from UK merchant Cockburn and Campbell, which also imports the All Saints Muscats)."

Michael Broadbent, Decanter, October 2012

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