"It would be easy to let the approach to All Saints - an elm-lined drive arriving at an imposing turreted wine centre - lead to over-expectation;
Simon Arkless' alluring cuisine ensures no one leaves disappointed.

 

The Terrace itself is bunkered under a permanent marquee to the north of the main buildings overlooking lush lawns, and proceedings can start modestly enough too; perhaps oysters with fresh lime, ginger and chilli dressing, or snapper tartare drizzled in lemon-infused oil and capers.

 

The refinement increases cumulatively: larger dishes such as house-smoked duck breast may be surrounded by roast fig halves glistening with muscat vincotto; or meltingly tender aged wagyu rump could be dressed in a modicum of red wine sauce with bone-marrow puree flourished across the plate.

 

There are no tricks of deconstruction, just a perfect balance between statement flavours and finsesse, such as buttermilk panna cotta crowned with strawberry jelly and moscato granita for a fresh bite alongside toffee banana ice-cream."

 

AND ... There's a kids' fixed-price menu for $40.

 

VIBE Country styling.

 

BEST BIT The setting.

 

WORST BIT Trying to choose which fortified you'll drink after dinner."

 

The Age Good Food Guide 2015, Edited by Janne Apelgren and Roslyn Grundy, 25th August 2015