The Age, Jane Faulkner, June 2012
The region's fortifieds are some of the most complex wines created in Australia,
and making them is a real art, writes Jane Faulkner.
"What to drink - Fortifieds from Rutherglen
Up to $25
All Saints Rutherglen Tokay $22
The savvy Brown clan, three young siblings who own All Saints, are determined to hook a younger generation on to its fortifieds, hence the sharp labelling and slim-line bottles sealed in Vino-lok - the snazzy glass stopper. Of course, what's in the bottle counts most of all and winemaker Dan Crane crafts exceptional wine. This tokay (classfied as Rutherglen, so about five years old) is a wonderful mix of burnt toffee, molasses and cold tea. It's silky smooth and, while rich, it's not at all cloying. Lovely stuff."